For the best part of two decades, I have been travelling to Paris for work. At least three or four times a year, I’ll hop onto my favourite travelling office—the Eurostar train—and head into the City of Lights for business. Not once have I visited this iconic capital as a tourist and whilst that means it has taken me a long time to collate a little black book of cool restaurants, shops, hotels and more (because travelling for work often means never really seeing anything at all), it does mean that my recommendations come with a level of industry approval. Rather than the obvious travel guides you’ll find elsewhere on the internet (we all know you should probably visit the Eiffel Tower, Louvre and Moulin Rouge etc) this list is dedicated to all of the indie, under-the-radar, lesser-known stores, cultural hotspots and foodie secrets. From the most elegant, design-centric hotel in a great location to the best vintage destinations and French brands to shop while you’re on their turf, gastronomic delights and cool coffee joints, this guide would get you through 48 very chic hours, with a list of leftovers for next time.
(Image credit: @hannahalmassi)
In addition to some of my discoveries, I reached out to handful of beauty and fashion experts to share their secrets to treating Paris like the unique and truly individual city it really is. So, dig our your Sézane trench, get some comfy trainers on, learn how to use the Navigo app (download it already!) and let’s get into it. Here are the most stylish places in Paris to sleep, eat, drink, shop and much more.
Stay in an Aesthetically Pleasing Place:
(Image credit: Le Grand Hotel Cayre)
Le Grand Hôtel Cayré
I have stayed in the vastest range of Parisian hotels and accommodation options you can possibly imagine! From grotty rental apartments in the red light district to the George V, my experiences in the city provide quite the high-low list and a true understanding of what is worth booking. I hadn’t experienced, until staying at Le Grand Hôtel Cayré last fashion week, just how modern, stylish, cosy and unique a destination could be in Paris. Nestled in Saint Germain Des Prés and just a step away from Rue Du Bac’s metro station (a convenient spot that manages to be close to everything and yet not feel chaotic) this 7th arrondissement would also satisfy anyone with great taste: design connoisseurs, fashion girls and tourists looking for a luxe experience. And that makes sense—the former Hôtel Cayré was home to Parisian artists, writers and intellectuals.
(Image credit: Courtesy of Le Grand Hotel Cayre)
With spectacular views of the Tour Eiffel (it never gets boring) this boutique, carefully renovated hotel features 123 rooms. So it feels vibey but not packed out, boujis but not pretentious. I was fortunate enough to stay in La Suite du Collectionneur which featured a phenomenal range of art and objets as curated by Gilbert Kann. Every corner was Instagrammable but what was even more delightful was the abundance of space and the priority of comfort—from the gigantic, perfectly sprung bed to the roomy bathroom and separate living area complete with the best hotel-room snacks going, I never wanted to leave.
From the perfect steak frites at restaurant Annette (very welcome after 14 hours of hopping across town for back-to-back shows and presentations) to the cute little refresher room where you can get cleaned up and changed in peace and with space if your bedroom isn’t ready yet… every corner of this place exudes calm and style.
Grab a Coffee (and Probably a Croissant):
Dreamin Man
“Cute little barista coffee shop in the 11th that plays great records,” says Rebecca Rhys-Evans, Who What Wear’s Senior Fashion and Beauty Editor, Branded Content. “It’s near some of the city’s best boutiques and attracts some of the coolest kids in the neighbourhood, oh, and its coffee will satisfy the biggest coffee snobs.” Pastries are a key attraction and this hip coffee hub has additional branches dotted around the city in the 3rd and 1st arrondisements, so you can weave a pitstop into almost any itinerary.
La Maison D’Isabelle
“Renowned for its award-winning, golden-brown croissants made with high-quality butter, this Saint-Germain bakery claimed the top prize in 2018 for the Best Croissant in the Île-de-France region. Unlike many boulangeries, they bake their croissants throughout the day, ensuring you’ll always get them fresh and warm straight from the oven. One bite can turn a casual visit into a lifelong obsession,” says stylist and luxury shopping expert, Isabel Bazzani.
Land&Monkeys
“If you’re feeling peckish head to Land&Monkeys for vegan pastries,” recommends writer and Who What Wear contributor Avalon Afriye. I know, vegan goods in Paris? I didn’t think that was even possible! There are two Land&Monkeys cafes in the 11th, as well as the 4th and 1st.
Head to Vintage Heaven:
Seconde Vue
I realise this is a very niche find, but if you’re the type of person who appreciates vintage everything, then it’s vital you head to Seconde Vue, a destination for archival eyewear and sunglasses. I picked up a fantastic pair of Thierry Mugler frames (see below) that came home with me and had my prescription put in. As someone who is rather fussy about wearing cool glasses if I have to wear glasses, nothing beats vintage eyewear for big, statement frames and cool detailing.
(Image credit: @hannahalmassi)
Bobby Vintage
Afriye tells me she always takes visitors to Bobby Vintage, located in Le Marais, confirming that this is the postcode to focus on if you want to peruse a range of secondhand stores. “It’s a well-curated vintage store with mid-priced to high-end wares. You’re almost always guaranteed to spot treasure, which is rare when shopping secondhand. From there, gently make your way to Rue de Turenne for a plethora of consignment stores.”
Seven Boys and Girls
“A treasure trove of vintage fashion, this Parisian gem is one of the city’s most exciting destinations for rare designer finds. From the drama of John Galliano’s Dior era to timeless Yves Saint Laurent’s 70s specialities, every piece here is like discovering fashion history. The selection is curated with an artistic flair, perfect for those who dare to push boundaries and express their unique style through vintage explorations,” says Bazzani.
Make Brunch or Lunch a Moment:
Wild & The Moon
“The best juice I’ve ever had came from here. With a plant-based menu of pastries, bowls and salads and smoothies, this is a great spot for breakfast or lunch,” says Rhys-Evans. Wild & The Moon often collaborates with cool brands during Fashion Week, so if you happen to be visiting the city during February or September, you may be in luck for an extra-special experience. Last season, luxury fragrance brand Vyrao introduced high-vibrational plant-based elixirs to “celebrate emotional well-being through a distinctive synergy of scents and tastes.” Fascinating!
Chez Janou
“An extremely popular classic French bistrot in Le Marais, famous for its chocolate mousse (if you know, you know, and if you don’t, you should order it). I love it because I’m terrible at making reservations in advance and this place pretty much runs with walk-ins only,” says Rhys-Evans of Chez Janou, making this a recommendation we’d put forward for lunch rather than dinner, unless you’re prepared to wait in the evening…
Le Favori
“Seriously good sandwiches that taste as great as they look. Served from a old hole-in-the-wall-style sandwich shop with a ’50s pastel decor,” says Rhys-Evans (who is fast becoming my food guru). “My tip? Order the panko chicken and come with plenty of battery on your phone, you’re going to want to take a snap or two.”
Focus on French Brands:
The Frankie Shop
The Frankie Shop—loved for oversized shirts, perfectly tailored trousers, quilted jackets and so much more—is a brand that was founded out of both Paris and New York, but I always think of Paris as being its spiritual HQ. With its cult-like fan base, the dedicated The Frankie Shop stores often require a queuing system. So my hot tip is to head to Galeries Lafayette or any other multibrand retailer that has The Frankie Shop stock on the shopfloor as you won’t have to queue and you may even find a more comprehensive range of pieces and sizes. Last September I came away with a pleated skirt, shirt and a maxi coat, but getting the tax back made this a no-brainer… Just remember to shop with your passport so you can kick off the paperwork chain in situ.
Officine Universalle Buly
“Throughout Paris you’ll find a handful of Officine Universalle Buly stores, and each one is like stepping into an old-fashioned French pharmacy. Think marbled worktops and wooden cabinets filled with apothecary-style vials and tubes of everything you could imagine, from skincare to scented matches and fragrance to toothpaste. It’s a treasure trove for any beauty lover,” recommends Who What Wear’s Beauty Editor, Eleanor Vousden. “Make sure to browse the beautiful tortoiseshell combs and wooden hairbrushes, and you won’t want to leave without your very own personalised lip balm, which you can monogram with your initials and even choose the colour of the leather case and the accompanying pouch. Trust me, you won’t leave here empty-handed.”
(Image credit: @hannahalmassi)
Loulou De Saison
“Lou Lou De Saison has fast become one of my favourite French brands—the cashmere knits, the tailoring and the wool coats in winter, as well as the silk sets in summer, it’s so chic!” explains Rhys-Evans of the label established by influencer, Chloé Harrouche.
E.Dehillerin
“I’m no chef, but a walk around the 200-year-old E.Dehillerin always leaves me feeling inspired to cook,” says Rhys-Evans. “Said to be a favourite of Anthony Bourdain and the place where Julia Child bought her copper pans, it’s a cook shop full of gadgets, traditional cookware and, of course, history.”
THE FRANKIE SHOP
Lui Shirt
Officine Universelle Buly
The Courteous
LOULOU DE SAISON
Baltra Cashmere Sweater
Soak Up Some Culture:
(Image credit: @hannahalmassi)
Bourse du Commerce
Although artwork and artistry are almost everywhere in Paris (just see the fresco painted on the walls of an apartment building I visited above) there are some newer hubs that feel fresh and innovative. “The building of Bourse du Commerce, the contemporary art museum, has been in the centre of Paris since the 18th Century. It reopened in May 2021 as a showcase for François Pinault’s extensive contemporary art collection, displaying works by renowned artists like Jeff Koons, Maurizio Cattelan, and Cindy Sherman. Plus it has a spectacular rooftop terrace with panoramic views of Paris,” explains Bazzani, whose list of cultural recommendations is one I will return to time and again!
Atelier des Lumières
“This digital art museum transforms the way we experience art, through cutting-edge technology for an immersive experience,” says Bazzani. “Housed in a former 19th Century foundry, it reimagines its industrial past by turning walls and floors into giant, animated paintings that bring iconic masterpieces to life. Here, you don’t just admire art—you step inside it.”
The Wellness Galerie, Galeries Lafayette
I recently met up with the Galeries Lafayettes team and was blown away by the wellness department they showed me around. Not only is there a comprehensive beauty hall and somewhere for a delicious healthy meal via DS Cafe, but this destination curates a range of the best experts, experiences and treatments in wellness, beauty, personal care, energy and sport. From a fitness class with a celebrity trainer to advanced face treatments, cryotherapy to a brow lift, you could literally spend weeks in that cocooned, pink-hued basement and still never want to leave.
Get a Lesser-Known Luxury Fix:
Nose
“If you’re a lover of niche perfumery, there is no better place to visit than Paris. While you could spend weeks wandering the streets and darting in and out of the various boutiques, you could save yourself a lot of time by swinging by concept store, Nose. Nestled away on the extremely cool Rue Bachaumont (you can swing by Jeanne Damas’ Rouje boutique when you’re done), Nose collates some of the best olfactory experiences the city has to offer,” says Who What Wear’s Beauty Director, Shannon Lawlor. “Expect to get up close and personal with fragrances from heritage houses like Diptyque, Frederic Malle, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Creed and plenty more. The in-store experts will help guide you towards the scents that really speak to your personal tastes and preferences, making it the best place (perhaps in the world) to find your signature scent.”
The Next Door
“This has to be one of Paris’s coolest concept stores, especially for menswear and skate and streetwear labels. As well as clothing from Jacquemus, Visvim and Comme des Garçons, it also stocks some excellent beauty, tech and jewellery brands, plus, it’s really beautifully designed. If Dover Street Market is on your hit-list for shopping, then The Next Door will also be your vibe,” says Rhys-Evans.
Broken Arm
“A haven in the Marais for fashion and coffee enthusiasts. This concept store and café is known for brewing some of the best coffee in Paris, whilst featuring a curated selection of brands like Alaïa, Prada, Rick Owens, and JW Anderson. Since opening in 2013, it has become a vibrant hub where taste and style collide—a go-to pitstop for moments of respite during Fashion Week,” says Bazzani.
Dîner in Style:
Early June
“Since moving to Paris, I’ve been blown away by the offerings that span food (it is the birthplace of gastronomy after all) and shopping to culture. So far, my favourite restaurant is Early June. It’s an unassuming establishment with a community feel, tucked behind Canal Saint Martin in the 10th. This restaurant is a hub for travelling chefs, making it unique as you’ll have a varied dining experience each time,” says Afriye. “It’s dimly lit, perfectly moody and with the most knowledgeable and warm staff. Due to the limited seating, it can be challenging to secure a table, so I advise either arriving at 5.30 pm or after opening hours, popping your name on the waitlist and having an apéro at Le Comptoir Général (another of my favourite spots) close by.”
Clamato
“Ultra hip, rustically-designed seafood restaurant that’s an outpost of my favourite Paris eatery, Septime, but unlike its sister restaurant, there are no reservations—it operates with walk-ins only. If you’re looking for the French fashion scene, you’ll find them here,” says Rhys-Evans.
Boullien Julien
“A historic Art Nouveau brasserie located in Paris’s 10th arrondissement since 1906. It has been recognized as a Monument Historique for its exquisite Art Nouveau design. Known for its quintessentially French cuisine at affordable prices, and is said to have been a favourite of Édith Piaf, who would supposedly wait here for her beloved Marcel Cerdan,” says Bazzani.
Go Out Out:
Le Rouge
“If you do want to party in Paris, I’ve always had fun at Le Rouge in Pigalle. It’s crowded and sweaty but its iconic red light and French RNB/HipHop playlist make it quite a vibe, especially if you want to dance. The added bonus is that it’s right opposite the smashed burger take-out joint, Dumbo,” says Rhys-Evans.
La Buvette
“If you want classic French food but without the fuss of a traditional old bistrot, La Buvette is for you. The wine bar and first establishment from restaurateur Camille Fourmont, it’s become a staple in the French foodie scene.”
