Bows! Tweed! Skirt Suits! Chanel Reimagines Classic House Codes at Couture

News recently broke about Virginie Viard’s departure at Chanel. In the three weeks since the announcement, fashion insiders have been buzzing about who will take the next creative director post and how that will shape the future of the fashion house. The fall 2024 haute couture show may or may not provide a glimpse of the direction Chanel will take under a new lead, but the fact that the collection doubled down classic house codes says something about the current focus and what could be coming next. The collection was the work of the Fashion Creation Studio, according to show notes from the design house, and pays tribute to signature design motifs from the archives reimagined by 150 artisans in the ateliers.

Chanel’s couture runway show was held inside the Palais Garnier in Paris, a space that set the tone for the operatic show that both opened and closed with caped looks. Bows were executed in oversize proportions in the form of hair clips worn in nearly every look on the runway, as belts tied at the waist, and as straps on dresses. Skirt suits were finished with puffed sleeves and ruffled trim, showcased in opulent materials, and embroidered with feathers, beading, and cabochons. Skirt suits also took on classic tweed, as did swinging duster coats. The colors too, felt quintessential Chanel—with a palette of black, cream, pale pink, gold, silver, fuchsia, and celadon.

As we await news of a new artistic director, I’ll remain invested in who lands the coveted position. Ahead, see looks from the Chanel fall 2024 haute couture collection.